The Austrian capital, an example of a modern European metropolis, was throughout its history the imperial center of the once powerful and influential Habsburg monarchy (Austria-Hungary from 1867), which, considering that Croatia was part of this historical entity for nearly 400 years, also holds historical significance for us.

This Culture Trip article was created in cooperation with the city tourism office of Vienna and Vienna Pass, an ideal partner if you wish to embark on an exploration of the city’s cultural and artistic offerings, as well as all the institutions listed. The official occasion for the visit to Vienna was the Rolling Stones concert as part of the tour marking the band’s 60th anniversary, and I would like to thank the concert organizers for their trust and participation in this journey.

Other Culture Trip articles:

• Beč / Vienna (HR / ENG)
• London (HR / ENG)
• Edinburgh (HR / ENG)
• Copenhagen (HR / ENG)
• Catalonia (Barcelona & Figueres) (HR / ENG)

Vienna Through the Lens of Politics

As the capital of what was once one of the most powerful empires, Vienna served as the administrative, political, and cultural center of a state defined by a mix of ethnicities. For a long time, Vienna has been known as a multicultural city where Germanic, Slavic, and Hungarian cultures collided.

Many students from provincial regions—including from Croatia—studied in Vienna. It is worth noting how much of a political hub Vienna was at the beginning of the 20th century (cited year: 1913), when it was simultaneously home to the father of psychoanalysis, Sigmund Freud, and influential political-military leaders such as Tito, Vladimir Lenin, Joseph Stalin, Leon Trotsky, and finally Adolf Hitler.

Vienna as a Center of Music

This mix of cultures contributed to the fact that art in Vienna had a distinctive tone. Throughout history—whether in music or painting—the city on the Danube holds a place written in golden letters in the artistic almanacs. In terms of classical music, the First Viennese School (Mozart, Haydn, Beethoven, Schubert) had one of the strongest “scenes”, especially when you add the Strauss dynasty.

A bit later, within the Monarchy, Brahms, Liszt, and Mahler were active, while the Second Viennese School was led by Schoenberg, Berg, and others. Many of these famous composers were contemporaries, learned from each other, and lived at various locations throughout Vienna. There is even a full tourist tour dedicated to them, where visitors can spend the day visiting the birthplaces and workspaces of the aforementioned composers and also the Haus der Musik, an interactive museum dedicated to music.

Vienna as a Hub of Visual Arts

On the other hand, the visual arts also had a strong foundation in the former Monarchy. As the Habsburg dynasty, through its descendants in the 16th and 17th centuries, governed vast territories across Europe, it had rulers not only in Austria but also in Spain, the Netherlands, and Flanders (a region of present-day Belgium). It was precisely in those areas that, by a twist of fate, various crafts flourished and a golden Renaissance age of visual art emerged, which extended well into the Baroque period. Emperors and rulers were often patrons of such art and actively supported it. This is one of the reasons why museums in Vienna and Madrid house famous works by the Breughel painting dynasty, Anthony van Eyck, Peter Paul Rubens, Hieronymus Bosch, Rembrandt, Diego Velázquez, and many others.

As for Austria itself, its visual art truly blossomed at the very moment when the collapse of the once-mighty Empire—undermined by lack of industrialization, nationalism, and deepening ethnic divisions—was on the horizon: at the end of the 19th century. At that time, the tour de force was the incomparable Gustav Klimt. Disillusioned with the academic approach and traditional stiffness, he founded the Secession in 1897—a radical and reformist style that brought together prominent artists, designers, painters, and architects. Whether under the name “Secession” or its modernist offshoots, the movement spread across Europe in the early 20th century. The Austrians were inspired by the Belgians, French fin-de-siècle art, and the Munich Secession. In addition to Klimt, notable figures included Koloman Moser, Joseph Hoffmann, Otto Wagner, and Joseph Maria Olbrich, the architect of the Secession building.

After about a decade, creative energy gradually began to leave the collective framework of the Secession (though works like Klimt’s The Kiss from 1908 were still being created), and Expressionism started to gain momentum. Its key representatives were other major Austrian artists—Oskar Kokoschka and the equally tragic Egon Schiele and Richard Gerstl. The year 1918 not only brought about the fall of the decaying and crumbling Empire, worn down by World War I and separatist ambitions among ethnic groups and nations, but also claimed the lives of several of the main figures of Austrian art—Klimt, Schiele, Moser, and Wagner.

However, Austrian art still had its celebrated moments after what the Dutch would call the “Rampjaar” (Disaster Year) of 1918. In the interwar period, nearly every form of unorthodox art was targeted for eradication during the Austrofascist (1934–1938) and Nazi (1938–1945) regimes. So-called “degenerate” artists were banned from working, imprisoned, often killed, and their works destroyed. Many, fearing such a fate, fled through Switzerland and France to the United States or Britain.

Vienna – Performance and Film Art

In the 1960s, performance art flourished within the framework of radical art known as Viennese Actionism (Günter Brus, Otto Muehl, Hermann Nitsch, and Rudolf Schwarzkogler). Aside from the experimental works of the Actionists, film art in Austria gained international visibility thanks to directors like Ulrich Seidl, Michael Haneke, Gerhard Kargl, and others. On the other side of the screen, actors such as Erich von Stroheim, Oskar Homolka, Klaus Maria Brandauer, Maximilian Schell, Romy Schneider, and Oskar Werner left a significant mark on film history—along with more contemporary icons like the incomparable Christoph Waltz and Arnold Schwarzenegger.

So, culture and art have held an important place in Austrian life—both historically and today. During my recent visit, I had the trust of certain institutions to visit them and write more extensively for the purposes of this article. We’ll now proceed in the order of visits made during a two-day stay in Vienna.

Albertina Museum / Albertina Modern

Address: Albertinaplatz 1 (Albertina) / Karlsplatz 5 (Albertina Modern)
Opening hours: 10 AM–6 PM (Wednesdays and Fridays 10 AM–9 PM)
Ticket prices: https://www.albertina.at/en/visit/tickets/

The Albertina Museum consists of the main museum of the same name as well as Albertina Modern, whose function is clear from the name. However, I didn’t manage to visit the latter during this trip to Vienna. According to the Albertina website, it is a museum that holds one of the most important collections of European modernist art—the Batliner Collection. This collection is named after Herbert Batliner, a great art collector who donated his collection to the Albertina before his death in 2019.

This donation forms a key part of the museum’s permanent exhibition titled “From Monet to Picasso,” which begins with artists of Impressionism and Post-Impressionism such as Degas, Cézanne, Toulouse-Lautrec, and Gauguin. Further sections of the collection include examples of German Expressionism, from the Brücke and Der Blaue Reiter groups, as well as the art of New Objectivity, featuring works by Rudolf Wacker, Franz Sedlacek, and Hofer. A detailed focus on Austrian art includes works by Kokoschka and paintings by Albin Egger-Lienz. A great diversity of the Russian avant-garde is represented through works by Goncharova, Kazimir Malevich, and Marc Chagall.

The collection is further enriched by numerous Picasso masterpieces, ranging from his early Cubist paintings and mature-period works from the 1940s to exceptional graphic prints not previously exhibited and pieces from his experimental late period.

The collection is further complemented by numerous masterpieces by Picasso, from his early Cubist paintings and works from his mature period in the 1940s to top-level graphic works never before exhibited and paintings from his experimental late period.

In addition, at the time of the visit, several current exhibitions were open:

“Hans Weigand – Rider in the Storm”, by the Austrian painter and graphic artist known for his distinctive style

“The Horrors of War – From Goya to Today”, a photographic exhibition by Ukrainian photographer Mykhaylo Palinchak, where images of the current Russian invasion are juxtaposed with drawings by the famous Spanish painter Goya, who depicted the Napoleonic Wars and the French occupation of Spain in the early 19th century

The Chobot Collection, by Dagmar and Manfred Chobot, who operated the eponymous gallery founded in 1971. The collection includes works by Cornelius Kolig, Bruno Gironcoli, Alfred Hrdlicka, Verena Bretschneider, Franz Ringel, and Adolf Frohner

The museum also still featured an exhibition by Francesco Clemente, the Italo-American artist, showcasing his self-portraits, tarot cards, and travel impressions.

Something a bit different—but also part of the museum’s collection—are the reconstructions of state rooms and objects belonging to rulers of the Monarchy throughout history.

Leopold museum

Address: MuseumsQuartier, Museumsplatz 1, 1070 Vienna
Opening hours: 10 AM–6 PM
Ticket prices: Tickets | VISIT | Leopold Museum

The Leopold Museum is located in the so-called Museum Quarter, which says enough about how many other museum spaces exist in this mini cultural district. Part of the permanent collection is the exhibition Vienna 1900: Birth of Modernism, which summarizes what we previously said about the Secession, Klimt, Moser, and Leopold also has the largest collection of Egon Schiele’s artworks. That 1900 in the title of the exhibition, the intersection of art with intellectual life, is uniquely presented at the Leopold Museum, where the historical development of art from the Biedermeier period, atmospheric Impressionism, to Expressionism and New Objectivity can be followed in great depth.

The museum’s holdings are based on the collecting activities of Rudolf and Elisabeth Leopold, two ophthalmologists who, as top connoisseurs of art, over five decades starting in the 1950s, assembled a unique collection. Their exceptional passion for art enabled them to gather works by artists like Egon Schiele and Gustav Klimt—whose works until the 1960s were considered taboo and could be bought for relatively modest amounts. This led to the establishment of the most comprehensive collection of Egon Schiele in the world, with more than 220 works.

You can follow the museum’s current exhibitions via this link, and what remains a regret for anyone visiting is the fact that the brilliant exhibition Alfred Kubin: Confessions of a Tortured Soul had just ended—a show by the Austrian graphic artist and illustrator known for his nightmarish and phantasmagoric scenes, in the style of Belgian James Ensor and others. Still, a museum like Leopold offers many things to satisfy a potential visitor, so do keep track of what’s going on and what’s coming up at the Leopold.

This time, there was no room to visit other museums in this area, but I will list them anyway so that anyone whose interests they may suit better knows what can be found in the Museum Quarter:

Architekturzentrum Wien

Dschungel Wien

Halle E+G

Kunsthalle Wien

mumok

Q21

Tanzquartier Wien

WIENXTRA-Kinderinfo

ZOOM Kindermuseum

Haus der Musik

Address: Seilerstätte 30, A-1010 Vienna
Opening hours: 10 AM–10 PM
Ticket prices: Haus der Musik – Museum | Wien Ticket | Quicket (wien-ticket.at)

Haus der Musik is a charming institution, fully in line with Vienna’s rich musical legacy, a city where countless famous composers once lived and worked and where you can follow dedicated tours visiting the birthplaces of several of them.

In this context, Haus der Musik is a naturally interactive museum that offers a variety of exhibitions and multimedia installations exploring different aspects of music. The museum aims to provide visitors with an educational experience, offering new perspectives and insights into the history, science, and art of sound and music.

Visitors can take part in interactive activities such as conducting an orchestra or experimenting with various musical instruments. These hands-on experiences are intended to engage guests and allow them to explore their own musical talents. However, the quality and depth of these activities may not satisfy those with more advanced musical knowledge or skills who arrive with higher expectations.

Haus der Musik also includes a collection of historical musical instruments, including pianos, violins, and brass instruments. One of the highlights of the museum is the “Composers’ Cloud,” a series of rooms where visitors can learn about famous composers and their works.

Sigmund Freud Museum

Address: Berggasse 19, 1090 Vienna
Opening hours: 10 AM–6 PM, Friday 10 AM–8 PM (summer schedule)
Ticket prices: Opening Hours and Tickets – www.freud-museum.at

Our cultural odyssey through Vienna took an intriguing turn the following day as we delved into the fascinating world of Sigmund Freud at the Sigmund Freud Museum and Apartment. This impressive experience allowed us not only to discover and immerse ourselves in the life and work of the pioneer of psychoanalysis, but also to explore the fascinating link between Freud’s theories and the surrealist movement through the current exhibition.

Often considered the father of psychoanalysis, Sigmund Freud revolutionized the field of psychology with his theories about the human mind. Born in Vienna in 1856, Freud focused his research on the unconscious, dreams, and the interpretation of hidden desires and conflicts. His exploration of the psyche and subconscious opened new doors for understanding human behavior and the complexity of human experience.

Located in Freud’s former residence, the museum offers a unique insight into the life and work of the renowned psychoanalyst. Walking through the corridors, rooms, and hallways of Freud’s former home, we were transported back in time, surrounded by his personal belongings—including his iconic couch, antique furniture, and extensive library. The museum presents a captivating narrative of Freud’s life, his discoveries, and the profound influence his work had on the field of psychology.

During our visit, we had the pleasure of immersing ourselves in the thought-provoking exhibition titled “Surrealism and Psychoanalysis.” This exhibition explored the fascinating interplay between the surrealist movement and Freud’s psychoanalytic theories. Surrealism, an artistic and literary movement that emerged in the early 20th century, sought to explore the irrational and unconscious mind. The exhibition showcased works by renowned surrealist artists such as Salvador Dalí, René Magritte, and Max Ernst, among others, whose creations were deeply influenced by Freud’s theories. The juxtaposition of Freud’s ideas with surrealist artworks offered an engaging dialogue, highlighting their shared fascination with the unconscious, dreams, and the exploration of the human psyche.

Belvedere (Upper, Lower, Belvedere 21)

Our journey through Vienna continued with a visit to the magnificent Belvedere complex, which consists of the Upper and Lower Belvedere palaces as well as Belvedere 21 (focused on modern art). These architectural marvels not only boast stunning exterior design but also contain a range of impressive art collections that showcase the brilliance of both Austrian and international artists.

Upper Belvedere

Address: Prinz Eugen-Straße 27, 1030 Vienna
Opening hours: 9 AM–6 PM
Ticket prices: https://www.belvedere.at/en/visit

Our first stop was the Upper Belvedere, a magnificent Baroque palace exuding elegance. This grand institution is known for its extensive collection of Austrian art, spanning centuries and various artistic movements, with masterpieces by Klimt, Schiele, Funke, Messerschmidt, and even van Gogh. It speaks volumes that Klimt’s original The Kiss is housed here.

As we moved through the Upper Belvedere, we were delighted by the selection of permanent exhibitions that highlighted Austria’s rich artistic heritage. One notable exhibition was True to Life – Realist Painting from 1850 to 1950, which traced the evolution of realism during a transformative century. From landscapes to portraits, the exhibition captured the essence of realism, inviting viewers to engage with detail and the sincere portrayal of everyday life.

We also had the opportunity to experience In Sight: Georg Eisler, an exhibition dedicated to the works of the talented Austrian artist. Eisler’s art resonated with introspection and psychological depth, prompting visitors to explore the inner workings of the human psyche through various depictions—whether of daily life in Vienna, violent riots in Belfast, urban chaos at stations, or nightclub dancers. Personal diaries and sketchbooks offered insight into this Viennese artist who worked tirelessly to capture such moments spontaneously and simply.

Lower Belvedere

Address: Rennweg 6, 1030 Vienna
Opening hours: 10 AM–6 PM
Ticket prices: https://www.belvedere.at/en/visit

We also reached the Lower Belvedere, a palace that houses exhibitions centered on different artistic themes, styles, and historical periods.

We had the chance to see the exhibition Joseph Rebell: In Southern Light, dedicated to the works of Joseph Rebell, an Austrian painter and former director of the Belvedere Museum. The exhibition celebrated Rebell’s talent for capturing vibrant colors and Mediterranean brightness. With vivid brushstrokes and skillful use of light, Rebell transported us to sun-soaked shores and idyllic scenes, evoking a sense of peace and calm. This was the first solo exhibition of the esteemed landscape painter, born in Vienna in 1787, who from 1813 worked in Naples and Rome where he encountered the Mediterranean climate. His paintings were highly valued among art enthusiasts across Europe, including the aristocracy and royalty.

In addition, during our visit we immersed ourselves in the exhibition Viva Venezia!: The Invention of Venice in the 19th Century, which transported us into the romantic era of 19th-century Venice. Through a collection of paintings, sculptures, and decorative art, the exhibition presented the fascination that artists and travelers had with Venice across centuries, capturing its charm and timeless beauty.

Our visit to the Upper and Lower Belvedere was a journey through artistic brilliance and historical elegance. The permanent and temporary exhibitions at both locations allowed us to immerse ourselves in a wide range of artistic expression—from realistic painting to contemporary installations. The Belvedere, just like the Leopold Museum, the Albertina, and the Kunsthistorisches Museum, holds immeasurable value—not just for Austrian visual art, but for the global cultural and artistic heritage.